Last July I visited Bempton Cliffs, a nature reserve on the north-east coast of England managed by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds.
Throughout the spring and summer, around half a million seabirds nest on the precipitous chalk cliffs, making a cacophonous riot that is one of the most spectacular sights in the nature-denuded UK. A significant proportion of the world’s population of northern gannets breeds there, as do kittiwakes, guillemots, razorbills and – the star attraction – Atlantic puffins. Whales and dolphins can be seen offshore, though I was out of…
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